RF1 vs. RF2 vs. RF3: The New Rifle Plate Ratings Explained

RF1, RF2, and RF3 are the three rifle-plate ratings in the new NIJ 0101.07 standard. RF1 stops common rifle rounds like the 7.62x51mm M80 and the 5.56mm M193. RF2 adds the 5.56mm M855 “green tip.” RF3 stops armor-piercing rifle rounds. You’ve probably seen these labels next to the old Level III and Level IV numbers. The RF1 vs RF2 vs RF3 choice comes down to one thing: how much rifle threat you need to stop, and how much weight you’ll carry to do it.

The New NIJ Rifle Ratings: Why RF1, RF2, and RF3 Replaced the Old Numbers

For years, hard armor used Roman numerals: Level III and Level IV. The new NIJ rifle ratings replace that system. Under NIJ 0101.07, rifle levels are graded RF1, RF2, and RF3. So what does RF stand for in body armor? It just means “Rifle.” The soft-armor, or handgun, levels are HG1 and HG2. The new names do two jobs. First, “RF” tells you right away that a plate is made to stop rifle fire. Second, the system adds a middle tier that never officially existed. Our guide to the NIJ 0101.07 levels covers the full story. The short version: the protection didn’t shrink, the labels just got clearer.

Where HG1 and HG2 Fit In

RF1, RF2, and RF3 are for hard rifle plates. Soft armor uses NIJ HG1 and NIJ HG2 instead. HG1 stops common handgun rounds. HG2 body armor handles faster pistol rounds, like the .44 Magnum. If you want everyday, concealable protection instead of rifle protection, HG-rated soft armor is where to look.

RF1 vs. RF2 vs. RF3: The Core Differences

Here’s the RF1 vs RF2 vs RF3 comparison in plain terms. Each step up stops a harder rifle threat, and each step usually adds weight. RF1 is your baseline rifle protection. RF2 is the new middle tier. It stops everything RF1 does, plus one common round that used to slip through. RF3 is the top rifle level, built for armor-piercing rounds. The table below shows the NIJ rifle protection levels compared side by side: how each maps to the old numbers, the rounds it’s tested against, common materials, and a real weight range. One thing to note: RF2 is brand new and has no match in the older 0101.06 standard. Those are the RF level differences that matter most.

RF Level	Replaces (old NIJ)	Test threats	Common materials	Typical weight (10x12)
RF1	Level III	7.62x51mm M80; 5.56x45mm M193; 7.62x39mm mild steel core	UHMWPE (polyethylene); sometimes ceramic	~3.3–5 lb
RF2	New — no .06 equivalent (formalizes “Level III+”)	All RF1 threats + 5.56x45mm M855 “green tip”	UHMWPE core with ceramic strike face	~4.5–6 lb
RF3	Level IV	.30 cal M2 armor-piercing (.30-06 AP)	Ceramic strike face over UHMWPE	~7–8 lb

Test Threats Each RF Level Is Rated Against

The RF1 test rounds are three common rifle threats: the 7.62x51mm M80 ball, the 5.56x45mm M193, and the 7.62x39mm with a mild steel core. The RF2 test rounds are all three of those, plus the 5.56x45mm M855 “green tip” with a steel penetrator. That one extra round is the whole reason RF2 exists. The difference between M855 and M193 comes down to that penetrator: same 5.56 case, but the M855 green tip’s hardened steel tip is the one RF1 isn’t tested to stop. The RF3 test round is the toughest: the .30 caliber M2 armor-piercing round, which gets through most lesser plates. More test rounds means a tougher plate, and usually a heavier one.

Weight and Plate Profile Across RF Levels

Weight goes up as you move up the scale. A typical RF1 plate weight is about 3.3 to 5 pounds, since many RF1 plates are all polyethylene. RF2 plate weight runs a little higher, around 4.5 to 6 pounds, because stopping green tip usually means adding a ceramic face. RF3 plate weight is the heaviest, often 7 to 8 pounds each, thanks to the thick ceramic needed for armor-piercing rounds. Keep in mind that you usually wear two plates, so double these numbers for a full setup.

Materials Typically Used at Each RF Level

Materials follow the ratings. A light RF1 plate is often a pure UHMWPE rifle plate. That stands for ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene, the same light material used in any polyethylene rifle plate you can wear all day. For RF2 and RF3, you’ll usually see a ceramic composite plate: a hard ceramic face over a polyethylene backer. The ceramic breaks up the round, and the backer catches what’s left. Harder isn’t the same as stronger. It just does a different job.

What Is NIJ RF1 Body Armor?

So what is RF1? It’s the starting point for rifle protection, and it replaced the old Level III. An NIJ RF1 plate stops common rifle rounds that aren’t armor-piercing: the 7.62x51mm, 5.56mm M193, and 7.62x39mm threats above. For most prepared civilians, RF1 rifle protection covers the real threat, which is standard rifle ammo, not special rounds. Because RF1 plates are often made from polyethylene alone, they’re also the lightest option, and that matters when you have to wear one. Our Fortis III+/RF1 plate weighs 3.4 pounds and is special-threat tested against .308/M80, 5.56 M193 at 3,250 fps, and 7.62x39mm, the threats RF1 covers, without the bulk.

What RF1 Stops, and Where It Falls Short

So what does RF1 stop? Standard rifle ball ammo, the rounds you’re most likely to face. Where does it fall short? The clearest RF1 limitation is green tip. RF1 against M855 is not a sure stop, because that steel-tipped 5.56 round is the one threat RF1 isn’t tested for. RF1 also won’t stop true armor-piercing rounds like M2 AP. That doesn’t make RF1 weak. It makes it specific. If your main worry is standard rifle fire and you want to stay light, RF1 does the job.

Who RF1 Makes Sense For

So who wears RF1 armor? RF1 for civilians is a great default: home defenders, prepared families, and anyone who wants real rifle protection they’ll actually keep on. RF1 for patrol and lighter-duty police roles is popular for one reason: it’s the lightest rifle tier. That same lightness is what makes it work for civilians — you get mobility and all-day comfort, so the armor actually stays on. If you’re building a plate carrier you can move in, whether at the range, in a vehicle, or ready at home, RF1 gives you the balance of protection and weight most people want.

What Is NIJ RF2 Body Armor?

So what is RF2? It’s the brand-new middle tier. It stops everything RF1 does and adds the 5.56x45mm M855 green tip. An NIJ RF2 plate exists to close the green-tip gap without the extra weight of armor-piercing armor. That RF2 green tip coverage is the whole point. The round is common, and RF2 is the first NIJ level to test for it. Not sure why green tip matters? Our guide to green-tipped ammunition explains it. For RF2 rifle protection you can wear, our Fortis III+ Green Tip/RF2 plate pairs a polyethylene core with a ceramic face and is special-threat tested against M855.

The Advantages of RF2 Over RF1

The RF2 vs RF1 difference comes down to one round. So what does RF2 stop that RF1 doesn’t? The M855 green tip, the 5.56 round with a hardened steel tip. RF1 isn’t tested for it, but RF2 is. For about a pound more, an M855 green tip plate covers one of the most common rifle rounds out there. If you can’t predict what you might face, that extra margin is the real advantage RF2 has over RF1.

Why RF2 Was Created: Making “Level III+” Official

For years, brands sold “Level III+” plates, meaning armor that beat Level III but wasn’t Level IV. The catch was that level 3+ body armor was never an official NIJ rating. Each brand defined “+” its own way, so the label meant whatever the seller wanted. That’s the RF2 origin story. NIJ created RF2 to turn that middle ground, or intermediate rifle protection, into a special threat official rating with a real test for green tip. RF2 takes the guesswork out of “III+.”

What Is NIJ RF3 Body Armor?

So what is RF3? It’s the top rifle level, and it replaced Level IV. An NIJ RF3 plate is built to stop the toughest round on the NIJ list: the .30 caliber M2 armor-piercing round. That round has a hardened steel core made to punch through armor, so stopping it takes a thick, hard ceramic face. RF3 is the level you pick when armor-piercing fire is a real part of your threat, not a maybe. Our Fortis IV/RF3 plate uses a polyethylene backer behind an aluminum-oxide ceramic face and stops armor-piercing threats including M2 AP and M855. It’s maximum rifle protection, with the tradeoffs that come with it.

The Extreme Stopping Capabilities of RF3 Armor Plates

So what does RF3 stop? Just about the full range of common rifle fire, up to and including .30 caliber armor-piercing rounds like M2 AP. This is true armor piercing rifle protection, the steel-core rounds that go right through RF1 and RF2 plates. RF3 is the only NIJ rifle rating built to stop armor piercing rounds — the steel-core threats designed to defeat body armor. If a round is made to beat body armor, RF3 is the level built to answer it. That’s why RF3 plates use thick ceramic. Only a hard face can break up a steel core before the backer stops the rest.

The Weight and Mobility Cost of RF3

That protection has a real cost. RF3 plate weight is usually 7 to 8 pounds each, so a front-and-back setup can hit 15 pounds before you add a carrier. That’s the RF3 mobility tradeoff: more armor-piercing coverage, but less speed and stamina. Heavy armor wearability is clearly worse over a long day, and you’ll feel it on stairs or when you move fast. The real question isn’t “can RF3 protect me.” It’s “will I actually face armor-piercing rounds?” If not, you’re carrying weight you don’t need.

Buying Armor During the Standard Transition

When you shop for NIJ certified body armor, the 0101.06 Compliant Products List is still the list to trust. This is where NIJ compliant vs certified matters. “Certified” means a plate passed testing at an NIJ-approved lab and made the official list, not just that it was “tested.” For a full look at NIJ 0101.06 vs 0101.07, see our comparison guide. And your current Level III and Level IV armor isn’t outdated and doesn’t expire just because a new standard exists. Our Fortis Patrol Level III+ plate, for example, is NIJ Certified to 0101.06 Level III, a certified plate you can buy today.

The 0101.07 CPL was released in late June 2026. For companies and manufacturers working towards 07 certification, you may see the phrasing "tested to the 0101.07 standard" until the NIJ is able to work through all certification submissions.

Reading Hybrid Labels Like “Level III+/RF1” and “III+ GT/RF2”

During the switch, you’ll see hybrid labels like “Level III+/RF1,” “III+ GT/RF2,” and “Level IV/RF3.” Here’s how to read body armor labels like these. The first part is the old 0101.06-era name. The second is the matching new rifle class the plate was tested against. So a “III+ GT/RF2” plate is a Level III+ green-tip plate that covers the RF2 threats. One caution: a hybrid label shows the threat class a plate was tested to, not a certification. Until the new list exists, be skeptical of any “NIJ 0101.07 certified” claim. The honest phrasing is “tested to 0101.07 parameters.”

Choosing an RF Level That Matches Your Use Case

So which RF level should I buy? Start with the honest question underneath it: what level body armor do I need for the threats I’ll really face, not the scariest one I can picture? Choosing rifle armor is about matching protection to a realistic threat, and being honest about how much weight you’ll carry. RF1 covers standard rifle fire at the lowest weight. RF2 adds green-tip coverage for a small weight bump. RF3 stops armor-piercing rounds but costs you real mobility. To see how the rifle levels fit next to handgun and soft-armor ratings, check our guide to body armor ratings. The right pick is the level that matches your threat, no more and no less.

RF1 for Lightweight Mobility and Lower-Threat Scenarios

RF1 for civilians is the sweet spot when mobility matters and the threat is standard rifle fire. A lightweight rifle plate, often all polyethylene, lets you build a carrier you’ll actually train and move in. It makes a great range plate for practice, a solid choice for home defense, and it’s light enough that you won’t leave it behind. If your realistic worst case is common rifle ammo, not steel-core rounds, RF1 gives you real protection without slowing you down.

RF2 for Mixed and Unknown Threats

RF2 for civilians makes sense when you can’t predict what you’ll face. If green-tip ammo is a possibility, and it’s common and cheap, RF2 closes that gap for about a pound more than RF1. It’s the “cover your bases” pick. You keep most of RF1’s comfort while adding protection against one of the most common rifle rounds. For a lot of prepared people, RF2 is the smartest single plate to own, because it handles the unknown.

RF3 for High-Threat and Armor-Piercing Environments

RF3 for civilians is the right call only when armor-piercing rounds are a real part of your threat. If you truly need armor piercing protection against steel-core rifle rounds, RF3 delivers it, and nothing lighter will. Just be clear-eyed about the tradeoff. You’re taking on real weight and less mobility for a threat most civilians will never see. Choose RF3 because your situation calls for it, not because “more” feels safer.

Shop Rifle-Rated Plates at Premier Body Armor

Ready to buy rifle plates matched to your threat? Premier Body Armor makes hard armor across the full rifle range. Want a lightweight RF1 plate, or a green-tip plate to buy an RF2 plate? Our Level III and III+ plate collection covers the RF1 and RF2 threats. Need armor-piercing coverage and ready to buy an RF3 plate? Our Level IV plates deliver it. As the NIJ 0101.07 plates market takes shape, we describe every plate by the threats it’s actually tested to stop, so you always know what you’re getting. Match the plate to the threat, keep the weight honest, and you’ll have armor you’ll actually wear.